Paris with a Frenchman

26-29 May 2006

Paris was as lovely as ever on our Memorial Day visit! Arnaud and I flew in from Frankfurt and caught the bus to town. Unfortunately, when Arnaud called the hotel to let them know we were to be a little late, they informed us they had no reservations from us. Uh oh... NOT a good feeling to be walking around Paris at night without a hotel reservation! Luckily when we arrived they had a room for Friday night only. Sold! A late night jaunt down the block with the Eiffel Tower gleaming down the street found us in a local hang out serving their own special flavored vodka. Yowsa!

We were up in fine fashion the next morning to enjoy our petit de jeuner while talking with the chain smoking Parisian proprietor. His night reception had luckily found us a new room just down the street at a neighboring hotel. We said our goodbyes and went to check out the new hotel. Hotel Malar was charming with exposed wooden beam, blue tiled bathrooms, and provencial fabrics. It was also full of Americans - from Joplin, Missouri! They were visiting in conjunction with the nearby American University.

Next stop, the Pissaro-Cezanne exhibit at the Musee d'Orsay. It was the final weekend and we arrived to find the line snaking around the neighboring buildings. We decided to try the next morning and headed off to the Musee Maillol for an interesting collection of Magritte work. This Belgian artist had a wicked sense of humour!! We strolled back to the hotel (and a nap) through the busy streets of shoppers and stopping for lunch in a bistro.

After a comparison of the local art exhibits with fellow hotel guests, we headed to dinner in the Butte aux Cailles area home to the uprising of the people against the 2nd empire during the Commune in 1840. We had a North African meal (tagin & couscous) and chatted with the Dutch family that sat down next to us. Football was a hot topic! Then, across town to the Sunset-Sunside Jazz Club for concert by jazz guitarist and another Belgian, Philip Catherine. It was a great show, but after a day of walking, we were glad to return to the hotel and our bed.

On Sunday, we spent the morning in line outside the Musee d'Orsay waiting in line for the Cezanne-Pissarro exhibit. After 2 1/2 hours, we made it in. It was an interesting exhibit of these great painter's work. As friends and colleagues the two painters often painted the same scenes, at the same time, but with very different effect. Right Arnaud? He could always tell the difference... or not.

We then headed to the outskirts of Paris to a lovely park, le Parc du Bagatelles near the upscale 16th district. Our goal - find and stroll through the rose garden. Warm weather, green grass, sore feet, and bit of red wine tempted us to nap along side a lovely lake complete with swans. Aaaahhh... We then grabbed our bags from the hotel and headed to Laurent & Arianne's apartment in southern Paris. The boys reminisced about days in Frankfurt, and soon we headed to a classic local bistro for an excellent meal and sometimes hilarious conversation amongst me, Arnaud and the two Parisians.

Arnaud and I breakfasted with Laurent the next morning (Arianne had gone to work) before heading to the Jardin des Tuileries in hopes of seeing Monet's water lilies and cathedral paintings on exhibit at the Orangerie there. Unfortunately, we had no such luck. We lunched in the Japanese quarter, devoured (me) a book shop specializing in design, and then wandered the Champs Elysees until it was time to once again collect our bags and head for the airport...

Wish you'd been there!

-Tiffany